Friday, 31 October 2008

Restaurant: Chez Hugon, Lyon, France

Every so often in life you have these moments when the planets come together and you have a really enjoyable experience. Dinner at Chez Hugon was one of those times.

Lyon is according to some commentators the foodie capital of France.

It is the home of one of the greatest of all French chefs, Paul Bocuse. He of the Michelin 3-star restaurant at Collonges.

However, to those in the know, the real places to eat in Lyon are the bouchons.

Bouchons are small restaurants, typically family owned, that serve down-to-earth traditional food, much of it featuring offal and other extremities of animals.

Don,t let this put you off though as there will be other traditional dishes on the menu also.

The real authentic bouchons are nearly all small cosy places that exude atmosphere. They are also usually very good value and are generally packed with locals.

Eating at a bouchon was top of my agenda for my trip to Lyon. I was so keen not to miss out that I decided not to book a bouchon for our first evening in case our late Thursday afternoon flight from London was delayed.

I therfore booked our bouchon for Friday evening. As you'll read later this turned out to be a great decision.

Chez Hugon is a classic bouchon. Set down a side street it is small (approx 30 covers) with tables set closely together. The kitchen area is part of the same room, separated only by a partition.

We were greeted by the lady of the house who seated us at a table between two French families. As it transpired we we were the only foreigners in the restaurant for the whole night.

Very soon we were engaged in conversations with the people around us. They saw us looking at their food as it arrived and they helped us make our choices by explaining what their dishes were.

A nice atmosphere was developing as we all chatted away to each other. We tried our best at speaking French and they all happily spoke in English to us.

Bouchons typically have small menus and some choices may not be available if they have run out or they were unablc to get the ingedients at the Market that day. When it came time to order we indeed found that one or two of the choices were not available.

In the end the four of us had two starters to share followed by

2xPoulet au vinaigre (chicken in vinegar)
Quenelles de brochet (pike quenelles)
Langue de Veau (veal tongue)

The highlight was undoubtedly the chicken. It came with a delicious sauce with only the merest hint of vinegar to it.

My quenelles were also delicious if a slightly unusual texture. They came with a deliciously creamy sauce which I think may have been a crayfish sauce.

During the meal our French neighbours were offering us their dishes to try and we reciprocated. We got to taste a number of other dishes all of which I would be happy to eat.

We ordered the house red wine by the "pot", a thick-bottomed pitcher. Very drinkable. It always seems appropriate in places like this to drink what the locals are drinking.

We rounded of our meal by sharing two desserts between the four of us - a tarte tatin and a creme brulee.

During our dessert an old man and woman, who had come in earlier, appeared by the door, guitars in hand. The next thing we know the whole restaurant is singing along to French songs and a party atmosphere has developed.

We didn't know any of the songs but that didn't detract one bit from our enjoyment of the music.

Then the chef came out from the kitchen and did his party piece. It was obviously a rude song judging by the expressions on his face and the peals of laughter from the diners. He had a fine voice and went on to sing a couple of other songs.

The guitarists picked up that we were not French and asked to play a song for us. My wife misunderstood what they were saying and started to hum a French tune she knew. The guitarists quickly picked up the tune and started playing it. Then the whole restaurant joined in.

Great fun. And my wife got a nice round of applause. I think the French were surprised that she knew one of their songs.

After a few more songs the evening drew to a close. And what a cracking evening it turned out to be. Definitely one of the best evenings out in a restaurant for a long time.

This is peasant-style food with no pretensions or concessions to tourists. Go there for a truly authentic Lyonnaise experience.

The bill for 4 came to €147 euros which I rate as excellent value for a brilliant evening.

If you want to try the bouchon experience then I thoroughly recommend Chez Hugon I believe the musicians are only there on Fridays so try and go then.

My only fear in writing this is that if enough people read this review then I might not be able get a table the next time I go to Lyon!

Wednesday, 10 September 2008

Restaurant: Inamo, London

Inamo is an Oriental fusion restaurant in Wardour Street in the heart of Soho. Its claim to fame is that you do all your food and drink ordering using computer generated images that are projected onto your table.

Each table has a projector above it that projects a sort-of computer screen on your table. One corner of your table has a hollowed out circle in it and this is your mouse control. You move your finger around in the circle and this controls the mouse.

Using the screen that is projected on the table you can choose your food and drink, order the bill, request a waiter and even order a taxi. There is also has an "ambiance" option which allows you to control a set of colour/image combinations that are projected onto the table.

A final option is to turn your table into a game board and play battleships!

The big fear in going to a place like this is that the food comes a long way second after all the new gadgetry. Thankfully in the case of Inamo this fear doesn't materialise as the food is rather good. Given that the chef is ex-Nobu & Hakkasan this should be no surprise.

The menu is presented with options for Small Dishes and Large Dishes. For two of us we chose 4 small dishes and 4 large dishes. This gave us plenty to eat.

As you scroll through the menu each dish is projected on to your plate so you get quite a good impression of what you are ordering.

For small dishes we ordered Wild Boar Roll, Baby Back Ribs, Vietnamese Spring Rolls and Baby Crispy Prawns. Each of these dishes was delicious with the spring rolls and ribs particularly standing out.

For large dishes we ordered Black Cod, Chilean Sea Bass, Pomegranate Duck and Marinated Quail.

For me the stand-out dish was the Chilean Sea Bass. A fine succulent piece of fish. The Black Cod was also good but I've yet to have Black Cod anywhere that beats the one at Nobu (although this one came close).

Overall the food was of a high standard and I would happily return.

If you're a technophobe then I would suggest that you eat elsewhere as the ordering system will probably drive you bonkers. I noticed an older woman at the next table get more and more frustrated with the system and eventually she resorted to calling over a waitress.

For a computer-age person like me it was both easy and fairly intuitive to order. If this is the future then bring it on.

Friday, 22 August 2008

Golf Course: Chateau de la Chouette, Paris

Chateau de la Chouette is situated about 50 minutes drive from central Paris on the northwest side.

Your first impression when you see the course from the approach road is that it is very hilly. And let me confirm that the last (and maybe only) impression you'll have of the place is that it is damned hilly!

We arrived early (10:00am) hoping to get some breakfast. The kitchen wasn't open but the girl at the "reception desk" offered us a sandwich or a croque monsieur. I opted for the croque - big mistake. It was a frozen croque that they managed to burn. And it was as dry as sand. Not a good start.

The "reception desk" is literally that. A desk in one of the chateau's rooms. There's no golf shop as such.

The course started well with a lovely downhill hole. After your drive you are left with a difficult second shot over a stream just in front of the green. Nice start.

After that the memory starts to get fuzzy as a procession of holes come and go, quite a few of them involving water. For the front nine at least the holes are mainly played at the bottom end of the slope.

The 3rd hole was an exception. A climb up the slope from the 2nd green led to a great Par 3. The tee box is high above the shallow green with water in front and a bunker at the back. Nice hole.

Things start to unravel though at the 9th. This is a 370yd par 4 up quite a steep hill. In fact the last half of the hole up to the green really has you puffing.

From then on you really would need to be a mountain goat to enjoy this course. It is just a succession of steep climbs up and down with the lowlight coming between the 10th green and the 11th tee.

I don't think I have ever climbed such a steep hill on a golf course before. I measured the distance on Google Earth and it is about 150 yards from the green to the tee up a ridiculous slope.

This is not my idea of fun. All four of us had to stop more than once on the way up and we were all panting like mad. It was so bad that I could feel the lactic acid in my legs taking over! And none of us was fit to tee off for a good few minutes. Mad.

The back nine works its way up to the highest point of the course and then all the way back down to the lowest point of the course.

In fact the 18th is just as bad as the 9th as you have to work you way up from the bottom part of the course up another steep climb to the green. And then, just to rub it in a bit more, you have another climb to the club house.

Needless to say we were all knackered at the end of the round. I just could not imagine being a member at this club. It would either kill me first or I would go mad from climbing those damned hills.

So in summary - I will not be playing here again. There are far better courses around Paris more deserving of your time and money. If you decide to ignore this advice then bring plenty of crampons with you.

Saturday, 16 August 2008

Restaurant: Benares, London

Atul Kochhar trained at the Oberoi Hotel Group in India before coming to London in 1994. He then worked as head chef in Tamarind where he became the first Indian chef to be awarded a Michelin star.

On the back of this success he left Tamarind to set up his own restaurant in Mayfair called Benares where he has since won another Michelin star.

I'd been trying to get a booking at Benares for a Friday night for some months but without success. My penchant for keeping my options open till late in the week doesn't always work well when you're trying to get into one of the top restaurants in London.

I decided to try and book ahead and was fortunate to get a table within a week, probably due to the fact that it was August and lots of people are on holidays.

Atul has made a name for himself on TV over the last year or two appearing regularly on programs such as Saturday Kitchen and The Great British Menu. His food always looks fabulous so it was with a high level of anticipation that I headed there.

The entrance could easily be mistaken for an entrance into one of the many office buildings that occupy Berkeley Square. Once through the door you are taken upstairs to the main bar area. The decor is dark and contemporary and you certainly sense that you are in a temple of food. Having said that, you do feel as if you are sitting in what was once an office building.

As you'd expect, this is no ordinary Indian restaurant. Being a Michelin-starred restaurant you know it's not going to be cheap and in case you're in any doubt then one look at the prices will tell you that immediately. Do not go there expecting to pay high-street curry-house prices.

As we had arrived early (6:20pm) we were told that the good-value lunch menu was still available up to 6:30pm in case we wanted to avail of this. Nice of them to tell us this as it indicates that they are not being mercenary in squeezing us for every last penny.

However I'd waited for so long to eat here that I passed up on all the different menu options and headed straight for the A La Carte as I wanted to try the best of Atul's cooking.

We started with the Gosht Ke Shammi (Ground Lamb Patties Served with Cucumber Yoghurt) and the Tandoori Ratan (Lamb, Chicken Tikka and King Prawn Kebab Platter).

A slight side-track here. For many years my favourite UK restaurant was the Black Chapati in Brighton. It wasn't an Indian restaurant as the name might suggest. They served an eclectic range of dishes one of which was Lamb Patties. For me this was one of their best dishes and either myself or my wife would always order it when we went there. Unfortunately the Black Chapati is no more.

Anyway the point of the above is that once I saw Lamb Patties on the menu I just had to order it. I had this picture in my mind of the fantastic Black Chapati patties and I wondered if Atul could top them.

When they arrived they were nothing like the ones in the Black Chapati so it was actually hard to compare them as it would be like comparing apples and oranges - both nice but both different.

The Benares patties were very tasty without being exceptional. I probably wouldn't order them again but that's probably because I have a lingering vision of the exceptional Black Chapati patties.

The other starter was more memorable. A succulent piece of chicken, a big fat juicy prawn and a mini lamb cutlet all nicely tandooried. This I would definitely have again.

For the mains we had Machchi Amritsari (Batter Fried John Dory with Crushed Garden Peas and Gorkha Tomato Chutney) and Mongsho Ghughni (Roast Romney Marsh Lamb Rump on Rosemary and Garlic Chickpeas) with a side dish of Gobi Mutter (Stir Fried Cauliflower and Garden Peas with Cumin and Turmeric) and a basket of breads.

The John Dory was nicely cooked. It was still succulent inside which is not easy to achieve. Too often fish in batter is overcooked because the fish cooks quicker than the batter. The batter obviously had spices in it as it was much tastier than your average chop shop batter.

The crushed garden peas (i.e. frozen peas) were really delicious and complimented the dish perfectly.

Overall a very satisfying dish but I would not order it again. It just lacked that certain "je ne sais quoi".

The Lamb on the other hand was superb. Perfectly cooked lamb (i.e. pink) on a bed of spicy chickpeas. The flavour from the lamb was fantastic. Absolutely moreish.

The Gobi Mutter was another stand-out dish. A definite must-order for the next time. The breads were also delicious.

The thing that struck us most about the food was the background taste we kept getting long after we'd swallowed a mouthful. The subtlety of spicing and the lingering flavour was far beyond anything you'll experience in a high-street Indian.

As might be expected from a Michelin-starred restaurant the wine list favoured French wines but there were also choices from across Europe and the New World. At the top end there were the expected wines from Puligny Montrachet, Meursault, St Emilion etc.

Given that it was a warm summers evening and that we were having both fish and red meat we decided to opt for the rosé wine. This was a "Rose of Virginia" (at £42) from the Barossa Valley in Australia.

I'm not a fan of sweet wine (excluding dessert wine) and I'm always cautious of ordering a rosé in case it gets too sickly sweet. This wine was fresh and flavoursome but wasn't at all sickly sweet. It worked really well with our meal.

We finished off with a shared plate of three different Kulfis (pistachio, coconut and mango). I thought that these were superb and probably the best kulfi I'd ever had. The crunchy bits accompanying them added an extra dimension to the dish.

The service throughout was generally very friendly and efficient although one of the waitresses could do with spending another few days at Smile School!

Overall a very enjoyable evening's dining. The food ranged from very good to superb and I would definitely want to visit there again a number of times. I think that you only realise how good a restauarant is when you've tried many of their dishes and they are all consistently excellent.

The bill came to £162 with 12.5% service included. Not a shocking price for a Michelin-starred restaurant and I certainly have no complaints about it.

However is Benares five times better than Lahore (my favourite cheap Indian in London where £30 will buy two people a fantastic meal)? No of course it isn't but then it's horses for courses.

If you want a cheap night out with friends then go to Lahore but if you want a romantic evening with your partner or if you want to entertain a client then head to Benares. You won't be disappointed.

Friday, 1 August 2008

Restaurant: Thai Lounge, Lingfield

Lingfield in Surrey is best known as the home of Lingfield Park race course. It's is a bit of a one-horse town (except when it's race day!). Blink as you drive through it and you'll miss it.

It would be a shame to blink though as you might miss out on a wonderful Thai restaurant called Thai Lounge. It's in the High Street so is easy to find.

The first impressions are good. It's obviously had some money spent on it. You enter into a bar area with some comfortable seats. The cocktail bar offers a wide range of cocktails as well as all the usual drinks.

The eating area is situated up some steps from the bar area. The whole place has got a nice contemporary feel to it.

All the waitresses were dressed in traditional Thai dress and had that warm friendly approach that you associate with Thai people. Service throughout the evening was both friendly and efficient.

There were four of us there on a Friday evening and whilst the place wasn't full it had enough people in it to create a buzzy atmosphere.

We all ordered different items from the menu so that we could try as many dishes as possible.

Starters included Goong Phaow (Tiger prawns with herbs & chilli sauce), Satay Gai (Chicken Satay) and a plate of Mixed Starters

I regard myself as a bit of an aficionado of satay as I spent 4 years in Holland eating satay. It's almost a traditional pub dish over there due to the Indonesian influence from it's colonial days. I've also eaten satay as street food in Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand.

The satay in the Thai Lounge definitely ranks high up on my list of best satays. The skewers came with big pieces of perfectly tender chicken. 9 out of 10 for this. (As an aside there is a nearby Thai restaurant in East Grinstead called Mae Ping that serves probably the worst satay I've ever had. Miserable pieces of dry, chewy chicken).

The other starters, with one exception, were all delicious. The exception was the Thai fishcakes which came with the Mixed Starter dish.

As with satay, I am a bit of an expert on fishcakes. I cook fishcakes at home that are very light and easy to eat. They are fat, crispy and tender. My wife says that she can never eat anybody else's fishcakes as they don't even come close to mine.

I don't know what it is with Thai fishcakes but wherever you go in the world you get served small flat things that are like rubber. I know this is the traditional style but I've yet to meet anybody who raves about these. The ones we had here were just as rubbery as anywhere else so low marks for this dish.

Mains included Gaeng Phed Gai (chicken curry), Gai Yang (Thai-style char-grilled chicken ), Goong Phad Nam Prik Phaow (stir-fried tiger prawns), Neua Phad Gra Pao (stir fried beef) and Pad Thai (thai noodles).

Everything was delicious but one dish stood out above the others. The Gai Yang was one of the tastiest, tenderest pieces of chicken I've had in a long while. It's a fairly substantial dish so definitely one for sharing.

Overall this place deserves high praise for its decor, food and service. Easily the best Thai restaurant that I've been to in the Surrey/Sussex area.

Friday, 11 July 2008

Restaurant: The Westerly, Reigate

Reigate is a historic market town in Surrey. It is set at the foot of the North Downs about a mile off Junction 7 of the M25. It has retained some of its historical buildings including its castle which sits within the one-way system that encircles the town.

Probably the biggest down-side of Reigate is that the A25 runs right through the middle of the town. In fact the High Street is actually part of the A25.

In common with many other towns it has plenty of chain restaurants such as Pizza Express, Strada, Cafe Rouge, ASK etc. However it also boasts a number of individual restaurants serving above average food. The best of these is undoubtedly The Westerly.

The Westerly is situated just around the corner from the High Street on the London Road. If you were shopping in Reigate you might be tempted to turn back at the end of the High Street as it looks like there's nothing else of interest there but if you follow the one way system around on to the London Road then you will quickly come upon The Westerly.

It calls itself a "Modern Bistro" and I guess this sums it up neatly. It's got an air of casual elegance about it. It's informal and unfussy in a bistro type of way. However, unlike a Paris bistro such as Chez Georges (qv) there is at least some space between the tables.

I've been going to The Westerly since it opened about 18 months ago. It took over the premises previously occupied by another favourite of mine "Sweet Potato". When I first discovered it I was quite pleased that we had found another top restaurant not far from us.

My wife and I mistakenly thought this would become a regular place to visit on our Friday nights out. We always eat out on Friday night as it starts the weekend off on the right note. However I rarely book more than 24 hours in advance as I like to keep my options open to suit my mood.

Bit by bit it became impossible to get into The Westerly at short notice as word spread about how good it was. And then the floodgates opened.

The Westerly won the prestigious accolade of the 2008 Rémy Martin UK Restaurant Excellence Award. This award is given to the restaurant which has shown itself to be the most outstanding rising star of the UK restaurant scene.

The Westerly had not only finished ahead of other similar restaurants around the country but it had also beaten many Michelin-starred places to the title.

I don't know how many covers per week they did before the award but I'll bet that since the award they must have added at least 20% to the number. It is now nigh on impossible to get a weekend table at short notice. Unless you're really lucky like I was recently when I phoned in the hope of a cancellation. And bingo - I got a table.

The food is definitely a modern take on standard bistro fare. This is food that I would normally only expect to find in London or maybe in one or two of the top echelon of gastropubs.

I started with Croquette of Pig’s Head with Sauce Gribiche. My wife had Terrine of Chicken Livers, Cornichons and Onion Chutney. Both dishes hit the spot nicely.

Portions were just the right size for a starter - big enough to take the hunger away but small enough to leave you still yearning for the main course. They were accompanied by a basket of good quality bread. (I don't know if it's home made).

My main was the star of the night - Roast Icelandic Cod, Mash & Salsa Verde. This is a match made in heaven. As Michael Winner would say - "historic".

I'm fussy about my fish. Not only must it be fresh but it must verge on being undercooked. Fish that is overcooked (as most restaurants do it) is just a waste of money. Every fish (including shellfish) gets chewy and dry when it's cooked too much. That's not the way I want my fish.

I want a fish that has been seared on both sides and allowed to heat through until just past raw. This way it stays juicy and succulent and the flesh just falls away when you start eating it. I wish that fish could be ordered like beef i.e medium rare (or blue in the case of tuna!).

Needless to say The Westerly got the cod spot on. A lovely juicy piece of fish on a bed of the most unctious mash imagineable with a perfect salsa verde on top. This is the second time I've had this dish here and each time it has been 10 out of 10. I'm drooling thinking about it now.

My wife had Duck Confit, Garlic Roasties, Watercress and Blood Orange Salad. Again, another masterpice of execution.

From past experience we knew that The Westerly serve brilliant chips - triple-cooked in the Heston Blumenthal way. So we were a bit greedy and ordered a portion.

Now the main meals are meant to stand on their own as they each come with vegetables. In truth we overdid it with the chips. By the time I got through my cod and mash my appetite for chips had dwindled and so we ended up leaving half the bowl untouched. Sinful I know.

I did manage to squeeze in a dessert though. I had a Chocolate Malt Ice Cream and Peanut Butter Cookie. The ice cream was perfectly smooth and delicious. A find end to a fine meal.

Just around the corner from The Westerly is Tony Tobin's restaurant The Dining Room. For a long time this was my favourite restaurant in Surrey. I've literally spent thousands of pounds there entertaining over the years.

However, based on my last two visits, the standard at The Dining Room has fallen so far that I don't bother to go there any more. This is a restaurant living off its chef's TV fame.

Luckily I have The Westerly to go to. It's less pretentious, the food is better and it costs a hell of a lot less. It's a gem. But whatever you do don't tell anybody else about it. I want to be able to get a table there!

Wednesday, 2 July 2008

Restaurant: Wentworth Grill

After a splendid afternoon's golf on the West Course at Wentworth we stayed on for dinner at the Wentworth Grill.

As an introduction to the Wentworth Grill it is worth saying that this is no ordinary golf club restaurant. The restaurant is run by the Caprice Restaurant Group the owners of Le Caprice, The Ivy and J Sheeky amongst others.

The food was excellent. I began with a starter of Crispy Duck and Watercress Salad and followed this with Roast Hake on a bed of Spiced Arrocina Beans.

My friend ordered a bottle of Pomerol to accompany our meal. This was one of the finest reds I've drunk in quite a while - rich and smooth with a wonderful nose. Delicious! Unfortunately as I was driving I couldn't drink as much of this as I would have liked.

After the starters and mains I was feeling stuffed and I was going to pass up on dessert. However, my friend waxed lyrical about the Wentworth Sticky Toffee Pudding claiming that it was the best sticky toffee pudding on the planet. He banged on about it so much that I thought he must be on a commission for selling it.

Anyway I relented and, to give credit where it's due, he was not wrong. It wasn't at all stodgy as I had feared. It was a very light sponge covered in masses of toffee sauce served with a scoop of velvety smooth ice cream sitting in a brandy basket. Heaven!

This was probably the best meal I've eaten at a golf club in the UK. The Wentworth Grill could easily stand on its own two feet as a top restaurant even if it wasn't attached to the club. I've eaten here three times and each time the food was faultless.

Go there even if you don't play golf. You'll not be disappointed.

Golf Course: Wentworth West Course

The West course at Wentworth is the one that most people know as it has until recently been used for two televised tournaments each year.

Each May the BMW PGA Championship (formerly the Volvo PGA Championship) is played here and in the autumn Wentworth has long played host to the World Matchplay Championship (this is now moving to Valderama).

Whilst I had played here twice before it's been some time since then and my memory of the course was based more on what I see regularly on televison than on a previous round I've played.

It is always exciting to play a course that you've seen the pros play. For a start you are nearly always guaranteed that the condition of the course will be perfect and Wentworth was no exception.

Apart from the first 5 holes, when it was cloudy, the rest of the round was played in beautiful warm sunshine. The fairways were immaculate and the greens were in tip-top condition - fast but not ridiculously so.

We teed off quite late (15:10) but were blessed with a virtually empty course. We never saw anybody behind us and the first time we say anybody in front of us was when we caught a four-ball on the 18th. Even then they were playing their second shot and we didn't have to wait.

How enjoyable is that, having a world-class golf course to yourself?

The course has so many enjoyable holes (2, 4, 7, 8, 10, 11, 13, 17, 18 to name a few). It's a hillier course than you would think from watching it on TV. There are also a few blind landing areas so you need to watch your club selection to avoid hazards.

I played with a friend who is a member and who told me that it was safe to play a 3-wood off the 7th as the out-of-sight ditch was out of range. I promptly hit a sweet 3-wood into the ditch. Not happy with the advice!

On the 9th he advised me to hit my second shot left of the green. Again I hit a shot right out of the middle of the bat exactly on the line he indicated only to discover when I got up to the green that my ball was in the front bunker (which I couldn't see) on the left.

Definitely not happy with the advice. Needless to say I didn't listen to my friend for the rest of the round!

Most of the holes are tree-lined although the fairways weren't too tight. It's certainly a course that rewards good driving. Unfortunately I was not having my best day with the driver. My iron game was good however. Just as well as I had to play a few tricky recovery shots after going off-line from the tee.

As you would expect from the headquarters of the European PGA, the facilities at Wentworth are second to none in the UK.

Overall it was extremly enjoyable days golf. I was lucky that I was with a member as I only had to pay an £80 green fee. For a course of this quality that is a reasonable fee to pay and I would happily pay that again and again.

However if you turn up as a visitor you are going to have to pay a £280 green fee in the summer (this might explain why the course appeared so empty). I might pay that just to say that I've played Wentworth but that is not a fee I would more than once particularly as there are other fantastic courses nearby for a fraction of that cost e.g. Hankley Common at £70.

I've played all 3 courses at Wentworth on multiple occasions but I'm still not sure which one I like best. They are each excellent courses and have something different to offer.

Individually none of the courses are as good as the Old Course at Sunningdale (just down the road) but if I lived nearby I would love to be a member here and have three great courses to play.

Friday, 27 June 2008

Restaurant: Morston Hall in Norfolk

In recent years Galton Blackiston has come to nationwide prominence thanks to his presence in the BBC programme The Great British Menu.

He has, however, held a Michelin star for a number of years at his award-winning hotel in north Norfolk. Morston Hall is situated on the coast just opposite the little quay at Morston.

Unusually, he only serves a single set menu each day. He bases the menu on whatever is available on that day, ensuring that you always get fresh ingredients. If you have certain food dislikes or allergies then you can tell them in advance and they will cater for you.

The food was classic Michelin-style cooking, everything perfectly executed and professionally served. There was little to fault in the meal and yet I left feeling a tad underwhelmed.

It was all just a bit too safe. There was no adventure in the cooking. There were no outstanding flavours (except for the superb orange ice-cream). This is food that is replicated in dozens of Michelin starred restaurants throughout Europe.

If that's your cup of tea then you'll love this place. Personally, I'm always looking for something that's got more edge to it.

We stayed overnight at Morston Hall in one of the best rooms I've had in the UK. Their new Pavilion rooms are beautiful contemporary suites with all the mod cons and a little patio area.

As a total experience (hotel + restaurant), Morston Hall is hard to beat. So if you're short of brownie points with your loved one then you could do worse than book a night or two there.

Restaurant 7½/10 Hotel 9/10

Sunday, 8 June 2008

Golf Course: Chateau d'Augerville France

Chateau d'Augerville is situated about 90k south of Paris down some of the smallest, windiest roads you'll come across for a long time. It takes about 75 mins to get here from the centre of Paris.

The Chateau itself is a fine 4* hotel with about 50 rooms/suites. We played there on a Saturday and the hotel was buzzing with lots of guests staying for the weekend. Unusually many of the cars were Dutch and we didn't see another English car there.

Having driven down early from Paris we managed to blag a table in the hotel dining room for a buffet breakfast which kick-started the day nicely.

Teeing off on the first you have no sense of what a delight lies ahead of you. The hotel's 18-hole golf course has been classified amongst the 10 most beautiful in France and it definitely lives up to this.

The 1st is a short Par 4 doglegging around some trees to the green. Nice and easy start as long as you keep your drive fairly straight.

From the 2nd hole onwards the course is a succession of beautiful holes. The 2nd is a Par 5 that doglegs right up a hill to a huge green. The green has multiple levels and you could easily find yourself 100 feet from the hole if you find the wrong level. And if you're on the upper level putting down the slope then you're in big trouble.

Most of the holes are tree-lined and there's a real sense of quiet isolation as you plot your way around the course. Each time you think it can't get better it does just that.

The 9th hole finishes right in front of the chateau with the moat running in front of the green. The 18th hole finishes parallel to the 9th but to the side of the chateau. If there was one design change I'd make it would be to find a way to swap the 18th and 9th. The 18th hole deserves to have the grand view of the chateau.

The course has some great Par 3s. My favourite hole was the Par 3 15th. The tee box is set high up on a rocky outcrop looking down over a pond towards the green 180 yards away. It helped that I nailed a 5-iron to 5 feet and sank the putt for a birdie. My 2nd birdie of the day at a crucial point in our match.

The four of us rated this the best of the three courses we played on the trip (the other two were Chateu de la Chouette and Apremont). There wasn't a bad hole on the course and the greens and fairways were in excellent condition.

For me this is a must-play course if you are in the area. In fact I would recommend anybody to come to this area and play three gems - Fontainebleau, Chateau d'Augerville and Belesbat. These are all within 20 miles of each other. Play these three and you would think you were in golf heaven.

Saturday, 7 June 2008

Restaurant: Chez L'Ami Jean, Paris

On a recent trip to Paris I had the pleasure of eating at three restaurants.

On our last night we ate at Chez L'Ami Jean which is situated on a quiet street in the 7th arrondisement.

This is a modern bistro headed up by a chef from the Basque region who bases many of his dishes on food from that region.

The place is small and the decor has lots of wooden panelling. You literally sit elbow-to-elbow with your fellow diners. However, rather than this being a negative it creates a very buzzy atmosphere and you quickly find yourself in conversation with people at nearby tables.

The place was packed - not a surprise given that it was a Saturday night. It seemed like the clientele was split evenly between locals and tourists.

This is clever and inventive food that is full of flavour. In fact the menu descriptions do not do justice to the tastes that you experience. Unlike Chez Georges which serves well-known classic dishes, you will struggle to find a single dish here that you recognise.

The service here is frenetic but friendly. The waiter was even able to joke with us in English. In response to a comment from us that everything on the menu looked good he remarked that "all the food and wine is excellent. It's only the service that's crap!".

As a starter two of us ordered the Croustillant dish. This was like a large piece of filo pastry wrapped around a very tasty filling of carrots, egg and other ingredients which I'm not sure about. Very unusual and very delicious.

I can't even remember what the main dish was as I ordered something that I didn't recognise. I like trying different things so I thought I'd chance my arm. It had the word "Volaille" in it so I was assuming it would be based on chicken.

It was some concoction of chicken with a sauce and spices. Again very unusual and very delicious. One of the other mains was a rabbit dish which I tried. Again nothing but praise for this also.

There were four of us at our table and each one of us raved about our chosen dishes. In fact, at the end of our trip, we all voted Chez L'Ami Jean as the best of the three restaurants we had eaten in. Fine praise indeed given that we all loved Chez Georges also.

And to make matters even better it also was the cheapest of the three restaurants by quite a distance. With three courses, a couple of bottles of wine and some water the bill for four came to just over €200 euros. In my book that represents excellent value.

The only slight negative on the evening is that we got hurried away from the table at 10:30pm as there were people queueing to get in. We had booked the 9:00pm sitting fully expecting the table to be ours until closing time but it seems that this restaurant has a third sitting for late diners.

This is unique cooking and you come away feeling that you've just discovered a little hidden gem.

Just one tip - reserve your table well in advance. This place is popular both with Parisians as well as tourists.

Friday, 6 June 2008

Restaurant: Hiramatsu, Paris

One of my all time best meals in Paris (in fact, anywhere) was at Stella Maris a French restaurant run by a Japanese chef.

It was therefore with much anticipation that I had booked Hiramatsu. Like Stella Maris it is run by a Japanese chef and serves classic french cuisine. It also holds a Michelin star.

I had anticipated that of the three restaurants that our golfing group were going to visit, Hiramatsu would be the best. The other two were Chez Georges (qv) and Chez L'Ami Jean (qv).

All four of us elected to go with the Tasting Menu (Delice Gastronomique) as the tasting menu at Stella Maris the previous year had been stunning.

As you'd expect from a Michelin-starred restaurant the meal was kicked off with an Amuse Bouche.

The menu comprises various courses designed to show off the talents of the chef. These included a crab and prawn dish, a foie gras dish, a fish dish, a lamb dish, a cheese plate and a dessert.

It was all faultless in execution but somehow lacked excitement. This is a typical Michelin one-star restaurant in that it serves classic food faultlessly but it lacks that edge that will get your taste buds excited.

The atmosphere in the restaurant was also very stiff and formal. The service was friendly but slow at times. One of my pet hates is when a restaurant takes the wine that I have bought away from the table. On more than one occasion I had to indicate for a top-up. Very poor.

The most distinctive part of the evening was the bill - €650 euros for 4 of us with two bottles of wine. By far the most expensive meal we had over three nights. And by far the least memorable meal also!

Nearly 14 months after eating at Stella Maris we still talk about it and some of the dishes we ate. A couple of days after eating at Hiramatsu we could hardly remember the dishes. It really left no memorable impression with us.

By unanimous decision we would all return to both Chez Georges and Chez L'Ami Jean many times but one visit to Hiramatsu is plenty for us.

Thursday, 5 June 2008

Restaurant: Chez Georges, Paris

On a recent trip to Paris I had the pleasure of eating at three restaurants.

The first night we ate at Chez Georges in the 2nd arrondisement. Beware that there are other restaurants called Chez Georges - this is the one on Rue du Mail.

This is one of those restaurants in a quiet street that you could easily walk by and not realise that behind some very ordinary looking doors lurks a hive of activity.

Chez Georges is a classic turn-of-the-century bistro that exudes warmth and coziness. Tables are close together but this just adds to the bonhomie of the place. Service was friendly and efficient even though the restaurant was full.

The menu is full of traditional bistro classics such as chicken-liver terrine, curly endive salad with bacon and a poached egg, steak with béarnaise etc.

For starters I had "harengs avec pommes à l’huile" (herrings dressed with potatoes in oil). Other starters at our table included herrings with a vinaigrette, mushrooms a la grecque and escargots. These were accompanied by some delicious breads including slices of Poilane bread.

The starter portions are huge. We could easily have ordered two starters for four of us and we would still have had plenty to eat. A definite tip here is to share starters.

With the exception of the mushrooms, which were tasty without being exceptional, we all rated our starters as exceptional.

For the main course two of us (myself included) ordered the "Sole Georges". This is a sole filet with a sauce made from Pouilly wine and crème fraîche. Absolutely delicious.

To accompany the sole we ordered some frites. The frites were quite possibly the best frites I've ever eaten. They were thin and crispy with no oiliness whatsoever.

Other mains included Rognons de Veau (veal kidneys) and grilled turbut with bearnaise sauce both rated as excellent.

All of the above was washed down with a number of bottles of wine including the house red, a Cote de Brouilly, and a bottle of Sancerre.

This is comfort food at its best. It's the sort of food that you could eat every night unlike some of the Michelin-starred food served in other restaurants.

It's not cheap here. Four of us paid €330 euros before we added service. However euro-for-euro I would prefer to eat here than in some of the Michelin-starred places.

This is a place that I will visit again and again.